Adding a new fish or invertebrate to your aquarium can be an exciting or stressful event for both the fishkeeper and the livestock depending on the first crucial steps taken. Some techniques can make this process easier for all concerned and minimise stress to the livestock.
To avoid long-term problems, research any fish or invertebrate you plan to purchase to ensure that you can provide the right conditions for long-term maintenance. Remember, it is far easier to put a fish into a reef-tank than it is to remove it - consider purchasing a purpose made fish-trap to make removing livestock for treatment or relocation in case of problems.
Having made your selection and ensured that your new acquisition is properly bagged, the first step is to get your purchase home. To minimise changes in temperature, the Maidenhead Aquatics Fish Transportation Bag or a polystyrene fish transport box, are ideal and can be bought from your local store. Make sure that you get your new stock home promptly, as temperature fluctuations in a hot or cold car can be stressful.
Once home, unpack new fish under low light levels in quiet conditions. Ideally, new fish should be placed in a quarantine aquarium to ensure any problems can be treated in the absence of invertebrates, which would be damaged by medications. Such a tank can be a very basic set-up with an internal filter (matured in the main tank) and plastic pipework to provide cover. Lighting is optional, but a close-fitting lid will prevent fishes jumping out. Temperature should be identical to the main aquarium but specific gravity can be lower - ideally around 1.020 to aid parasite control. Treatment with a copper-based medication will help minimise the risk of parasite outbreaks in the main aquarium if all new additions go through a two-week quarantine period. Follow the technique below to move fish from the quarantine set-up to the main tank. The use of an ultra-violet sterilizer can help control parasites in the main tank. Invertebrates do not tend to suffer from such problems but can be affected by predatory nudibranchs and molluscs. Hitchhikers such as crabs and flatworms should also be removed before adding new inverts to the main aquarium.
In order to minimise transport shock, use the Fintro to perfectly introduce your new livestock into their new home. Otherwise, empty the bag into a bucket or container allowing sufficient water to cover the fish or invertebrate. Cover the bucket to prevent fishes jumping out and pay close attention to avoid flooding. Using a length of 4mm airline, siphon water from the tank into the livestock bucket - use a clamp or valve to limit flow-rate for delicate invertebrates. Crustaceans such as cleaner shrimps are often the victims of osmotic shock caused by too rapid a change in salinity. Aside from using a Fintro, this is the most effective alternative method of acclimatisation as all water parameters can be equalised, minimising stress. Once the bucket or container is full and S.G. matches the destination tank, transfer the fish or invertebrate, ideally by using a smaller container. Small buckets may need some water removed and further addition of aquarium water to ensure thorough acclimatisation. Some invertebrates should never be removed from the water and exposed to air as this will lead to internal damage - principally these include Echinoderms (such as starfish and urchins) and Sponges. It is good practice to keep all corals and anemones submerged as they are incapable of supporting their own weight out of water and are easily damaged. Dispose of the water in the bucket and top-up the tank with new water.
When adding new invertebrates to the main tank, care must be taken to ensure correct placement in terms of lighting and current. Corals may object to a major change in lighting conditions and some adjustment may be necessary. Turbo snails should be placed on a hard surface as they may be incapable of moving over a loose substrate and unable to feed or seek shelter.
Addition of new fish is complicated by territorial aggression, which is often directed towards new arrivals. Add new fishes with the lights off and in the case of highly aggressive species, rearranging the rockwork may be helpful. A mirror attached to the outside glass of the aquarium may serve to distract territorial fish by presenting them with a rival of their own species. New arrivals are more prone to jumping from the aquarium than established specimens - ensure the aquarium is well covered. Some species are particularly shy and may take up to a couple of weeks to settle in before confidently appearing in open water to feed - adding food to the aquarium while the room is in darkness is a useful way to ensure nervous fish get a good meal.
As with all aquaria, adding new stock increases levels of organic pollutants - ensure your aquarium is stocked at a steady rate and monitor water quality. Remember that factors such as high nitrate levels or salinity will be stressful to new additions without having the same effect on animals more accustomed to poor conditions.