Care
The Sixray cory is an ideal bottom dweller for peaceful, softwater aquaria. The substrate should consist of soft sand in order to protect the delicate sensory barbels, with plenty of shady hiding spots provided amongst tangles of driftwood. Peat filtration and leaf litter will both help to acidify the water whilst giving it a natural tea-coloured appearance with the tannins that are released. Whilst plants are not a big feature of this species' natural habitat, they may make the aquarium more aesthetically pleasing. G. pauciradiatus is a highly sociable species and must be kept in groups of 5 or more (10+ is better). The aquarium should be fully mature before this species is added and frequent partial water changes are a must, as they can be rather sensitive to elevated nitrate levels. As these fish are found in fairly fast-flowing streams in the wild, do ensure there are areas of moderate current and a good level of oxygenation. Large shoals of small midwater dither fish will encourage these fish out into view.
This little catfish was been moved from Aspidoras to Corydoras and seems to be miniature member of the elegans complex, which has seen it redesignated to the genus Gastrodermus. These catfish have the ability to breathe air intestinally, so a small gap should be left between the surface of the water and the cover slides in order for the fish to come up to the surface and take air in. They may do this numerous times per day. May also be seen on sale as False Corydoras or Aspidoras pauciradiatus.
Feeding
Sinking catfish pellets/granules/tablets, flake, and frozen foods such as bloodworm, white mosquito larvae, daphnia, vitamin-enriched brineshrimp etc.
Breeding
This species has been bred in the home aquarium. Mature fish can be triggered into spawning by performing a large, slightly cooler water change and letting the temperature slowly creep back up towards the top of the preferred range. A pair will adopt a T position where the male fertilises the eggs that are held between the females pelvic fins. The semi-adhesive eggs will then be deposited onto plants, decor, or the sides of the aquarium etc and the process repeated. It is best to rehome the adults in another aquarium once spawning has ceased, to prevent predation. The eggs generally take around 30 hours to hatch, and after a further 24 hours the fry will have used up their yolk sacs and become free-swimming and are able to take finely-powdered first foods, microworms, and newly hatched brineshrimp. The fry take approximately 8 weeks to reach full adult pattern and colouration.
