Care
The Flagtail Cory is a peaceful catfish that is ideal for mature, softwater aquaria. This strikingly patterned bottom dweller is the only known species of Cory that sports a horizontal pattern of black and white stripes on the caudal fin, hence the common names of flagtail or bannertail. This sociable species should be kept in groups of 5 or more; this will not only create a beautiful display, but it will give these shoaling fish much more confidence to venture out into the open. Unfortunately, Flagtail Corys tend to be quite prone to barbel infections/erosion, so it is vitally important that the fish are kept on a soft sand substrate (rather than gravel where waste can build up unseen) in order to protect these delicate sensory organs. Regular maintenance, including frequent partial water changes, should be carried out in order to keep these fish in good condition. Provide some shady retreats amongst bogwood and areas of dense planting, and keep only with small, peaceable tankmates, such as some of the smaller-sized characins/cyprinids/anabantoids or dwarf cichlids. Corydoras have the ability to breathe air intestinally, so a small gap should be left between the surface of the water and the cover slides in order for the fish to come up to the surface and take air in. It may do this numerous times per day.
Recent work on the previously enormous genus Corydoras has moved this species into Brochis, reflecting a close kinship despite some differences such as numbers of dorsal fin rays and a lack of senior synonyms used for the other groups/lineages of former Corydoras species. Further studies will probably result in this fish being placed in a new genus.
Feeding
Sinking catfish pellets/granules, flake, and frozen foods such as bloodworm, white mosquito larvae, vitamin-enriched brineshrimp etc.
Breeding
The Flagtail Cory has been bred in the home aquarium, although it is much more challenging than the breeding of many of the other members of the Corydoras tribe. A couple of weeks prior to the spawning attempt, ensure that your fish are well-conditioned on a varied diet of live and frozen foods. Mature fish (preferably a ratio of 2 or males to every female) may be triggered into spawning by performing a large, cool water change and increasing oxygenation. Pairs will adopt the classic T position where the male fertilizes the eggs that are held between the female's pelvic fins. The adhesive eggs will then be deposited onto plants, decor, or the sides of the aquarium etc and the process repeated. The eggs generally take around 4 days to hatch, and once free-swimming will be able to take finely-powdered first foods, microforms, and newly hatched brineshrimp. To avoid predation and to ensure a higher success rate, many fishkeepers prefer to set up a separate breeding aquarium with water parameters matching that of the main tank, along with a gentle air-driven sponge filter and clumps of Java moss. The conditioned adult can be carefully acclimatized to this tank, and once they have been triggered into spawning, they can then be moved back to the main tank after all of the the eggs have been deposited, thus hopefully ensuring a larger yield. Many breeders like to add a small amount of methylene blue to the aquarium to help prevent fun guessing of the eggs.
