Care
The Northern Long-nosed Cory is known from the upper Amazon basin in Bolivia, Ecuador and Peru.
This peaceful species is ideal for the mature community aquarium, and should be maintained in groups of 5 or more due to shoaling nature. Unfortunately, it can be a little prone to barbel infections/erosion, so it is of paramount importance that the fish are kept on a soft sand substrate (rather than gravel where waste can build up unseen) in order to protect these delicate sensory organs. Regular maintenance, including frequent partial water changes, should be carried out in order to keep these fish in good condition. Provide plenty of shady areas amongst driftwood, rocks, and areas of dense planting. Other peaceful species such as some of the smaller pencilfish, tetra, and rasboras make ideal tankmates, and their presence as dither fish in midwater will encourage the Corydoras out into view more often. Corydoras have the ability to breathe air intestinally, so a small gap should be left between the surface of the water and the cover slides in order for the fish to come up to the surface and take air in. It may do this numerous times per day.
Frequently imported as C. septentrionalis, this is one of the few fishes in the hobby that remain in the genus Corydoras. One of a number of similar species, this fish has had many C and CW numbers, before having its taxonomy resolved. C 17, 78, 124 and 127 as well as CW 080 and 124 have all been identified as belonging to this species. This reflects variation seen in wild batches that is less evident in the tank bred specimens that are more commonly seen.
Feeding
Sinking catfish pellets, frozen foods such as bloodworm, white mosquito larvae and vitamin-enriched brineshrimp.
Breeding
The long-nosed true Corydoras species can be a little more reluctant to spawn in home aquaria and often need more extensive cycling and conditioning to trigger breeding. A drop in temperature together with large water changes using softer water can be combined with feeding live and frozen foods to bring the fish into spawning condition. A pair will adopt the classic 'T position' with the male fertilising the eggs that are held between the females' pelvic fins. Eggs are reportedly small in comparison with Hoplisoma and Brochis. Fry will take small livefoods such as Microworm and newly-hatched Artemia (baby brineshrimp) before graduating to dry foods alongside suitably sized frozen foods. As with most fry, feeding and water changes should be frequent for best results.
