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Synonyms | Tilapia buttikoferi, Chromis buttikoferi, Tilapia ansorgii |
Distribution | Native to Guinea, Guinea-Bissau, Liberia, & Sierra Leone. Introduced to Japan & Singapore. |
Maximum Size | 40cm (15.8") |
Temperature | 23-25°C |
Water Parameters | Neutral to slightly alkaline conditions are best. pH: 6.5-7.8, dH: 12-25 degrees. |
Compatibility | Non-community |
Lighting | No special requirements |
Sexual Dimorphism | Very difficult to determine, the most reliable way is to "˜vent"™ adult fish. |
Feeding | Flake, granules, cichlid pellets and frozen foods |
The Hornet Tilapia is a large-growing and very aggressive cichlid species that is known from deep, rocky West African waters. Their natural diet of small snails means that adults require a good-sized feeding territory and this intolerance of conspecifics is also found in tank-bred specimens. Juvenile fish can be housed together, but adults are much more belligerent and do not tend to mix well with others. To house one of these fish, a very spacious aquarium is required. A group of youngsters may be grown on together, but they will soon require separating into single specimens or compatible pairs (aggression usually becomes apparent once the fish attain 2" or so) and rehoming into larger quarters before serious problems arise. Putting a male fish and a female fish together at a later date does not mean they will be compatible, in fact, it is quite unlikely to work - it is best to let the fish grow up together and pair up naturally. Hornet Tilapia will display darker markings when maintained over a dark-coloured substrate, and large specimens tend to show a bit of a yellow tinge to the white bars. Large-sized gravels/pebbles should be avoided as bigger specimens are capable of throwing it against the glass; it is best to choose the smallest-sized gravel available. These fish like to dig and rearrange the décor, so ensure that any large structures are stable, and definitely make use of a heater guard. These fish are big eaters, so an efficient filtration system along with regular water changes is very important in order to keep them healthy. Anything green and leafy will be regarded as a tasty snack, so if plants are desired they will have to be plastic and well-weighted down or secured to the decor. With regards to tankmates, large non-territorial shoaling fishes are the best choice in aquaria large enough for them to keep out of harm's way. It may be possible to house a Hornet Tilapia with other cichlids of a similar size and temperament in a huge tank with plenty of visual barriers amongst the decor but more often than not, these fish do best on their own. If you are fortunate enough to obtain a compatible pair, it is best to house them in a species-only tank, as extreme aggression would be shown towards outsiders if breeding occurs in an aquarium containing other fish - and this could all too quickly result in fatalities. And always have a sturdy tank divider to hand, in case they start to behave too pugnaciously towards one another. Materials such as egg crates (popular with coral propagators) can be used and holes provided to allow the smaller female easy access to her own area where the male can't follow. Although there are a number of important rules to adhere to when maintaining these fish, kept under the right conditions the Hornet Tilapia makes for a great pet fish; it is not a bit shy, and quickly learns to recognize its owner.
A malacophagous omnivore - wild specimens feed mostly on small snails. Small specimens will enjoy all manner of foods including flake/green flake, cichlid pellets/granules, and frozen foods such as mosquito larvae Spirulina-enriched brineshrimp, and Mysis shrimp; adults will require larger foodstuffs such as cichlid sticks, Krill/prawns etc. But do ensure they receive ample vegetable matter such as blanched spinach, kale, lettuce, cucumber etc, and do not feed high protein foods too often. Duckweed, considered a nuisance in some aquaria, is gobbled up with relish!
Biparental substrate spawner. Once a compatible pair forms and they are ready to breed, there will be a lot of displaying and assertive sparring (if things get too violent, you need to be prepared to separate them). Following this, both fish will excavate a large pit in the substrate in which they will spawn. Clutch sizes are large, as in the wild the fry are relentlessly preyed upon and this ensures that some survive to adulthood. If you have a compatible pair and they decide to breed, be prepared to move the male to other quarters once the eggs have been laid/fertilised, as the adults can become exceptionally nasty towards each other. Given the huge numbers of fry produced and the difficulty in finding them homes, think carefully before allowing these fish to spawn.
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