Care
The Giant Halfbeak is widely distributed throughout much of South and South-east Asia, from the watersheds of Pakistan and eastwards as far as Indonesia. Here it favours heavily vegetated, slow-flowing backwaters, inundated fields, marshes, oxbow lakes, quiet streams, and swamps.
This elongate surface dweller attains quite a length, and as such, requires a spacious aquarium that is at least 6ft long. The greater the length of the tank, the better, as this will help reduce the likelihood of these fish damaging the needle-like snout. The tank should be biologically mature with a sandy substrate and plenty of cover in the form of driftwood and tall, robust planting. Floating vegetation can also be used to help diffuse bright lighting and will make the fish feel more secure. It is important that the aquarium lights switch on and off gradually, as these fish can be a little skittish and react nervously to sudden changes in illumination. Likewise, the tank should be situated in a quiet area so that it doesn't receive continual foot traffic going past. Filtration should be efficient, but water movement fairly gentle, and frequent partial water changes will help keep nitrate to a minimum - especially important as this species is rather sensitive to the build up of pollutants. Although the Giant Halfbeak is predatory, it is a peaceful species that can be kept alongside fish that are too large to swallow, and can be maintained in a community aquarium of medium-large sized peaceable fish. Juvenile fish are gregarious and may be seen schooling in large sized groups, and although this instinct isn't as marked in adult fish, they tend to do best when maintained in groups of 5 or more. Avoid keeping with small fish or with boisterous fish that may outcompete the Giant Halfbeaks at feeding time. Ensure that the tank has tight fitting coverslides, as these fish are expert jumpers.
May also be seen on sale as the Freshwater Needlefish.
Feeding
Can be tricky, particularly when first introduced to new surroundings. The diet should be tailored to the size of your particular specimens. Small live or (defrosted) frozen foods are best for younger fish e.g. bloodworm, white mosquito larvae, daphnia, vitamin-enriched brineshrimp etc. Larger specimens will take bigger foodstuffs such as Mysis shrimp, river shrimp, chopped prawns, small pieces of white fish, chopped mussel meat, and small earthworms (make sure these are clean and free of any pesticides). May eventually take some dried foods, but is unlikely. Observe to make sure any dried foods that are offered are actually taken, as otherwise the rotting uneaten food can easily foul the aquarium water. Warning: Will eat any fish that can fit into their deceptively cavernous mouths!
Breeding
This oviparous species has been bred in the home aquarium, but it is not a regular occurrence. When ready to spawn, the male swims parallel to the female and begins shuddering from side to side. The pair then position themselves close to aquatic vegetation, with the male assuming a slight head-down position as he curls his anal fin under the female's vent. The pair remain entwined until a single large egg is released and attached via sticky threads to plant leaves. These fish are continual spawners, with each female producing around 12 eggs per day. As soon as they are seen, the eggs can be carefully transferred to a separate aquarium with matching water parameters in order to avoid predation. There is no parental care. The eggs typically take 7-10 days to hatch (temperature dependent), and the fry can be offered baby brineshrimp (Artemia nauplii) soon after hatching. The youngsters may need separating by size as they grow, as larger individuals will consume their smaller siblings.
