Care
With a modest adult size and a big personality, these little turtles are a far more suitable choice than the Sliders and Cooters commonly referred to as Terrapins. Unlike their distant cousins, they are easy to house and do not require enormous tanks or ponds. Musk Turtles are also known as Stinkpots due to the defensive odour wild specimens give off when captured. Tame captive specimens do not use this trick unless very stressed, although they still don't appreciate being handled unnecessarily. As with all pets, we would recommend washing your hands thoroughly after dealing with these animals.
Musk Turtles are very aquatic and spend most of their time walking or resting underwater. As inhabitants of the shallows, they don't tend to swim in open water, preferring to climb about on submerged structures. When young, they need warm, shallow water and even when adult they need easy access to the water's surface due to their limited swimming ability. Whilst fairly hardy, all turtles require good water quality and a small internal filter laid on its side will provide adequate filtration for hatchlings. Larger animals may need more extensive filtration but make sure that excessive water movement is avoided for these slow-moving creatures. Regular partial water changes are essential to control waste levels and algae growth. Although they do not bask as much as many other turtles, they still require access to a dry haul-out area where they can warm themselves and gain exposure to UVB lighting. This thorough drying is vital to prevent fungal problems and to achieve a proper body temperature to enable digestion. Rapidly growing babies are creatures of the warm shallows and should be kept in water heated to around 25c with a basking lamp providing a hot spot of around 35c. As they mature they can be kept in cooler conditions - adults are happy at room temperature as long as basking facilities are provided and will thrive if provided with secure outdoor accomodation during the spring and summer. Raised feature ponds, where they can be easily seen and monitored, are very suitable but ensure that any such facilities are securely covered to prevent escape or predation.
Although these are not large turtles, a tank 60cm (24") in length should be the minimum for hatchlings, with 100cm (39") adequate for adults. Floor area is more important than water depth and should be as generous as possible. As well as robust (or expendable) plants, bogwood and rockwork should be used to provide an interesting environment for your pets. Compatibility may be an issue with mature specimens and males will generally prove intolerant of one another. All specimens for sale are captive-bred and as such free of parasites and health problems seen in wild-caught animals. Properly cared for, they will live a long and healthy life and are not a commitment to be rushed into on impulse - these turtles can easily live for twenty years or more.
Feeding
At all stages of their life these turtles are primarily carnivorous and youngsters will thrive on a varied diet consisting of shrimp and worm-based frozen and live foods, aquatic snails and chopped fish. A good quality pellet to ensure balanced nutrition and adequate levels of calcium can be introduced as they grow and can provide the staple diet once readily accepted. Both adults and young will eat fish and should therefore be housed away from non-turtle tankmates. To avoid excessive pollution it is best to feed little and often. Note that with many turtles, excessive feeding can lead to unhealthy growth rates and cause shell deformities in extreme cases. Adults may eat some plant material and given that they prefer weedy habitats in the wild, it is a good idea to use a hardy plant such as Egeria or Elodea to provide shelter and an occasional dietary supplement.
Breeding
In the wild most populations encounter colder winters and may require a cool winter rest for best results. Females will bury their eggs in typical turtle style and require a deep substrate in a suitably equipped dry area to do so. Up to 5 eggs are laid, which should be removed for incubation at between 25-28c for around 70 days. Higher temperatures produce female hatchlings, which are more compatible as adults and hence preferred. Given the long lifespan of these animals and the availablity of adults in need of rescue, think long and hard before producing any hatchlings that you don't intend to keep.
